Wireless Tethering – The next level…
Hello! It’s been a while! How are you? Hope you are well…
Ok, now that the pleasantries are out of the way, I have something really exciting to show you guys. A while back I wrote an article showing off something I was working on to help with the motion shots in my automotive photography. Some of you may remember my ‘Wireless Tethering’ device. Yes, we all know it’s an oxymoron, but that’s what makes this so damn cool. Well, I’ve recently updated it and it’s now even cooler, not to mention more practical.
Read on to find out more…
Turns out the original design, while good enough to get me out of trouble, just didn’t ‘feel’ right. I always felt like it was about to fall off the camera or break or something. So it was time to re-think how it was all put together. I ended up coming up with something that not only makes it look more professional, but hides and protects it, and makes it possible to mount on a tripod with a flash trigger in the camera’s hot-shoe.
So, to skip the fussity fuss, this is what it looks like now:
As you can see, I have it mounted inside my MB-D10 vertical grip. To do this I used my spare MS-D10 battery holder which holds 8xAA batteries. I then cut off the battery mounts from one side so that I could fit the Trulink device board inside but still be able to mount 4xAA batteries, which is what is required to power the Trulink board. I then modified the battery circuit by pulling out the top connector plate at the back of the battery holder and effectively cutting it in half. At the same time I cut off the top contacts so that the batteries would no longer supply power to the camera and become a completely independant circuit. I then soldered a wire to the remaining part of the back plate, ran it up the front to a switch, then soldered the last wire to the bottom contact plate to connect the positive.
Fitting in the Trulink board was probably the most tricky part. In the end I just drilled a hole for the antenna to stick through, then I grinded down the plastic around it so that it would sit flat and straight. I then had to use a washer as a spacer because I needed the antenna to screw in tight to hold the board in place. After that it was just a matter of wiring up the power and modifying the USB cable to the right length.
In the end, it all sits straight and firm and fits into the MB-D10 perfectly.
If you’re wondering why, while I’m ok with soldering, I didn’t just solder the USB cable onto the board to remove the need for the USB-A connector, well, I tried that and it just didn’t work for some reason. Not sure why. Possibly a grounding issue. But this works and the USB-A connector sort of acts as extra support anyway.
So that’s it. It wasn’t really a major exercise in the end and it just required a bit of fore-thought before cutting anything up. If you do stuff up though you can get another MS-D10 on eBay for like 20 to 30 bucks (I got a spare for US$19.99). You can also see by the photos that I drilled a hole in the wrong spot because I didn’t plan it too well in the beginning. I just plugged up with a little rubber grommit that I found laying around.
Oh, as for software, I’m still using Breeze Systems, nkRemote and it’s doing me quite well. If you’re after a pretty neat, simple remote camera control application for Nikon cameras, give it a try. They have different versions for Canon as well so Canonites have a look too. No, I’m not endorsed by them or anything. I just think their software is cool.
I’ll have some photos of it in action at some point. I have an automotive shoot coming up this weekend that I am planning on using it at. It will make it so much easier to be able to sit in the car and wirelessly stream LiveView from the camera and taking pictures.
P.S. Sorry for the uber slackness on posting! I’ve been really REALLY busy!
Finally, here’s a photo of it all together and on a camera.